20090614

golden bounty

ripe mangoes 1

it's the first time that the decade(s?) old mango tree has given out a worthy crop--pure gold, really, it has earned its keep as the giving tree. we still don't know exactly what variety it is, but i can say that the fruit are very large (some are more than a pound each), fibrous, but very, very sweet and juicy. i'm not sure i care, really. and i was thinking of posting some recipes, but for now we are just eating them out of hand, sometimes straight off the tree--warm and fragrant, juices dripping down our forearms, sticky and sweet.

mangoes

20090607

lost restaurants

steak sangwich

when i was a kid, on special weekends we used to go to the cliff hotel in agaña heights to eat at the red carpet restaurant. i honestly don't remember much about it except that the hotel was indeed on a cliff so it had a spectacular island and ocean view, and living up to its name, it did have red carpet. i also remember two specific items from the menu. one was a clubhouse sandwich, which, as a kid, i thought was the deeeluxe-superduper-bee's-knees with its triple stack of toasted bread and fillings, cut into quarters and skewered with a frilly toothpick; running a very close second in superduperness was their french dip/steak sandwich that was little more than juicy slices of beef piled on top of a garlic-butter-slathered-and-toasted bun.

red carpet restaurant is gone; i can recreate the sandwiches, but without the restaurant experience, they just aren't the same, no matter how delicious. holland bakery had the best italian herbed hamburger you'd ever have in a warehouse, house of wong had the kind of filipino-ized americanized chinese food i adored--lurid orange sweet and sour pork, eggy fried rice, shrimp camarones wrapped in bacon, hototai soup, all served on melamine platters with stamped tin utensils. m's steak house in dededo had those red glowing heat lamps keeping warm loaves of homemade pumpernickel bread wrapped in a starched white fabric napkin, and pats of butter in a stone urn topped with ice chips to keep them cool. salzburg chalet would have lovely little thin squares of chocolate, wrapped in postcard scenes of europe, at the end of every meal. there was a smorgasbord/buffet in sinajana called the crow's nest (and at some point, the captain's table) that had a penchant for molded gelatins and aspic--lime gelatin and salmon mousse shaped like a leaping fish, lemon gelatin with ham salad loaves, red gelatin and fruit cocktail rings with a cottage cheese center. okay, maybe that wasn't so delicious, but the memories are still as evocative.

there are so many restaurants that have come and gone--some missed, some completely forgotten. guam diner found an old glimpses of guam article about restaurant options on guam in 1973 that's worth looking at if you are are old as methuselah (or, rather, as old as i am), and don't get me started on all the places in los angeles i miss.

so what about you? is there some place that no longer exists except in the fondness of your heart?

20090602

bistek

bistek

although the philippines and guam are generally considered asian or pacific/asian countries, you could definitely argue that with the acapulco-manila galleon trade of the 16th-19th centuries and early spanish rule, much of our respective cultures are more in keeping with latin america than most of southeast asia.

bistek--which means "beef steak"--is the filipino/chamoru equivalent of a beef dish called bistec commonly found throughout hispanic and latino countries. it is, in fact, the pacific cousin to bistec encebollado, or steak with onions. it is quite literally just that: grilled or pan-fried beef fillets marinated in a soy sauce and citrus marinade with just a hint of garlic, with rings of sautéed onions.

i'm not sure what the actual difference between the filipino and chamoru versions is, if there is one at all. the recipe i grew up with uses calamansi (or kalamansi if you like) juice as the souring agent. it also acts as a meat tenderizer, so it is not necessary to use the best cuts of beef for this--although i have generally seen sirloin and tenderloin (eye steak) used, this is a good way to use tougher cuts like flank and round. however, should you find yourself with a dozen defrosted rib eyes and new york strips because someone inadvertently unplugged the fridge overnight, don't hesitate to use them. in fact, don't hesitate to use them.

this is a fairly easy recipe, but it does require that you generally know how to cook a piece of meat. i can cook a tender cut of steak, but i'm flummoxed with a flank. my mother, however, can make the leanest cuts as soft as butter, so adapt this recipe accordingly. ideally you should end up with tender meat and meltingly soft onions in not-too-salty-not-too-sour meaty gravy. but you know what? if you eff it up, it's still going to be pretty good, so don't worry about it and try it again another time.



bistek

2-lbs of beef steaks of your choice, whatever you're comfortable with using
1 cup of soy sauce (important note: if all you have is kikkoman original brand or something as strong, use less--anywhere from 1/4th to 1/2 cup less because it is a little harsh for this recipe. i use aloha shoyu, which i find is sweeter and milder, but try a lower sodium brand or even tamari if you can't find an equivalent)
1/2-3/4th cup of calamansi juice, or any sour citrus juice--use more or less to your taste
2 large onions, cut into rings
2 cloves of garlic, minced finely
olive oil

marinate the meat in the soy sauce and calamansi juice for a minimum of four hours--overnight is better. depending on your cut of beef, two nights might be best, but that's sort of pushing it. fry or grill in a large, smokin' hot pan or skillet on high heat until medium rare to medium (it will continue to cook for a few minutes after taken from heat). remove from pan, set aside. lower the heat to medium high, add a couple tablespoonfuls of olive oil to the pan, then the garlic and onions. sautée until at least translucent--my family prefers them to be caramelized, which takes much longer but has a sweeter result. add beef and any meat juices back into pan; if it's relatively dry, add some of the marinade and/or water, turn heat down, simmer for a few minutes. serve with a bucket of rice or potatoes.







20090504

eating at benii.

benii

benii, a smallish japanese restaurant in upper tumon in the star building. tucked in the corner. near the paint store. you know it? apparently i have over 60 photos of food from there, a sign that i might like it? a lot? maybe it's safe for me to a review. maybe. i've just sort of forgotten how.

the restaurant has been open since around october of 2007. it's a bright, clean, yet cozy space, with a contemporary vibe. there's nothing intimidating about the space except for the almost constant crowds. neighbourhoody. laid back but not slack. very little has changed since my first meal there, besides the modest expansion (which added only about 4 or 5 tables, but still 25% bigger than it once was). there is nothing intimidating about the menu, either. there's not a whole heck of a lot of fusion going on here. it offers a little bit of everything: set menus, bento boxes, noodles, izakaya-style small plates, sushi. food has always been prepared by chef shibata-san's kitchen; it is consistently fresh, done well, with generous portions at a more than reasonable price. it is a local favourite, and i'm pretty sure it's because shibata-san and co. are like, the Fry King Masters of the Island Universe. i am so not kidding about this. i'm pretty sure that's why it's always packed with locals. and why i'm there at least once a month.

benii fried stuff

behold, a sample of the hotty hot deep-fried love: tonkatsu, panko-breaded pork loin, juicy within and crispy all around, served with a wedge of lemon to cut through the milky sweetness of the pork and sweet salty tonkatsu sauce; panko-breaded prawns in a traditional (albeit spicy) japanese curry with pickled ginger and rice; chicken karaage , the best chicken nuggets you'll ever have; lightly fried tofu steak on a bed of sizzling onions and topped with dancing bonito flakes and nori. not oily! not heavy! never dry nor goopy! needs nothing more than a bowl of rice and a utensil.

benii sushi rolls

the sushi rolls are the least traditional things on the menu: dynamite egg rolls of tamago omelette and flying fish roe with wasabi mayo; surf and turf rolls with korean style beef and broiled unagi eel; dragon rolls of broiled unagi eel and tempura shrimp. there's even a SPAM roll, which is probably a lot like one of their best sellers (yes, also fried): the bacon roll made from a thick slice of smoked bacon tempura battered and fried then rolled in sushi rice and nori. omgwtfbbq if you are a bacon lover this is bacon love.

of course, not everything is fried. you can get the traditional nigiri sushi, along with sashimi and hawaiian-style poki. my regular favourites are the tuna sashimi with natto or the negitoro bowl with chopped fatty tuna belly, a little flying fish roe and tamago omelette on a bed of hot white rice. the tuna poki comes with crispy prawn crackers, and you can get two different sized platters of fresh sashimi.

benii poki + sashimi

there are a vegetarian options, including a very nice fried eggplant curry, and an intriguing sounding avocado-tempura curry, and salads. the green salad and tofu salad are popular due in part to benii's soy sauce-based salad dressing (you can buy small bottles for home at the register), but honestly, some of the other "salads" are salads in name only, and probably not the healthiest choices on the menu.

benii spicy chicken salad

the spicy chicken salad is karaage chicken doused in a korean kimchi-spice based sauce, then generously zig-zagged with kewpie japanese mayonnaise. there's some green salad leaves underneath, crushed under the weight of the generous portion of meat. the teriyaki chicken salad is similarly doused, but the korean-style bbq beef salad is spared the kewpie (but is still all about the beef, not the greens). they are all quite tasty, despite the heavy hand with the sauce (you may want to ask them to go easy on it).

benii bento 2

if you can't decide what you want, there is a bento box special which includes salad, rice, miso soup, an appetizer and a bit of fruit along with the rotating special dishes.

benii bento 1

i'm told there's also dessert available, which is amusingly, also fried. a tempura-battered ice cream sundae. eek! maybe one day. for now i'm content with everything else.

okay there is always a bad, which for benii is that the wait at weekend dinner service can be loooonnnnnnnnnnnng. they don't take reservations. the kitchen closes at 9.30pm and it's closed on sundays. the service is generally good, except when it's packed (which is often). the space is not that big, so when there are crowds, it's a bit hard to maneuver, and the din can be quite loud. be prepared to wait. it's usually worth it.

update 7 april 09: benii has expanded into the space next door so it has almost doubled in size; there's more seating for larger groups and also much more counter space seating. the lunch and dinner menus have merged and there are more salad and seafood options. oh! and way more fried food. gaaah!

benii
in the star building, next to the paint store.
888 n. marine corps drive, upper tumon.
tel: 647.1090.

20090429

what's in your freezer?

what's in my freezer

mine's a little full at the moment.

20090422

noooo!


CLOSED 30 april 2009

firefly table

after 11 years, chef veronica calvo-perez will be closing firefly bistro in agaña at the end of the month. i'll be sad to see it go; it is a comfortable, cozy space and the quality of food and service is consistently top notched. however, times change, so chef ronnie will be concentrating on her excellent bakery, cup and saucer, which will see an expanded menu soon, including some of the crepe rolls and salads from firefly. however, this may be the last week you'll be able to order any of the soon-to-be-missed entrees including the roast chicken, soft shell crab, pastas and burgers, so get thee to agaña soon!

firefly bistro,
next to cup and saucer.
agaña.
477.2565.

20090416

first look: meskla bistro.

meskla interior

not a review, just a quick look at meskla bistro in agaña, chef peter dueñas's new venture. he used to be the chef at sam choy, and was responsible for creating the local portion of the menu, the backyard kitchen. he's also the outdoor chef, lol. meskla, i think, means "mix" in chamoru; the cuisine is described as chamoru fusion. there are two menus--one for lunch, another for dinner, with a few items duplicated. we had lunch there today, but i look forward to checking out the dinner menu, which has more seafood and vegetarian options.

meskla shrimp kelaguen

lunchtime kelaguen--the guam version of ceviche--changes, so ask your server. today was uhang (shrimp/prawn), served with fried titiyas (the local flatbread). light, fresh, lots of flavour, with a good onion, citrus, pepper ratio. excellent titiyas.

meskla crab cakes

local-style crab cakes. i'm not a crab cake fan, so i only found these acceptable. crab is canned, finely shred, so the seasonings and (albeit modest) filler overpowered any flavour of seafood. i will say they taste like something aunty would have made.

meskla eggplant caesar salad

caesar salad with fried eggplant. (this is the third menu on which i've seen this item, is this the new chicken caesar??) i was curious. good romaine, lightly dressed (kudos for that, i hate too much dressing). a dusting of parmesan cheese. the dressing is very good--light, distinct flavour of anchovy. fried eggplant was good, but doesn't contribute much to the overall salad.

meskla grilled pork chops

grilled pork chops topped with a hot pepper paste, served on a bed of the local red rice, sautéed veggies, and a mushroom cream sauce. expertly grilled meat, all the flavours came out well. one look in the open kitchen and you see a bunch of big guys who look like they all know their way around a grill and a carcass. you probably can't go wrong with a meat entree here.

**

the menu is familiar but there are a lot of unexpected touches to keep it exciting. the entrées seem hearty and filling, but there are a few salads and a surprisingly light touch to the appetizers for those looking for a less heavy meal. prices are reasonable for guam, which means it's a little pricy, but you are paying for quality, nen. the interior is inviting, and the service was brisk but very congenial. despite being completely slammed, everything came out in a timely manner. a promising start.


meskla bistro
j+g building, kitty corner from the paseo
agaña.
479.BOKA (2652)